Diamond Shapes
Shape is the first thing people notice about a diamond. Each shape has its own character, light performance, and ideal proportions. Here are all ten, with the details that matter when you are choosing.
A quick note on terminology: "shape" and "cut" are different things. Shape is the outline you see from the top (round, oval, square). Cut is about the proportions and facet quality that determine how well the diamond handles light. You can have a beautifully cut oval or a poorly cut one. Shape is personal taste; cut quality is objective.
Every shape below is shown with our interactive diagram. The top view shows the facet pattern as seen looking down into the stone. The side view shows the crown, girdle, and pavilion proportions with measurement labels.
Round Brilliant
The Round Brilliant is the benchmark. Developed over centuries and mathematically optimised in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky, its 57 facets are arranged to return the maximum amount of light back through the top of the stone. Around 75% of all diamonds sold are round, which means the largest selection and the most competitive pricing for this shape. Because the cut standards are so well-defined, it is also the easiest shape to shop for by numbers alone.
Table 54-57%, depth 61-62.5%, and Excellent or Ideal cut grade. With rounds, the cut grading system on GIA certificates is reliable and you can trust the grade. A triple-excellent (cut, polish, symmetry all Excellent) is the gold standard.
Everyone. If you are unsure about shape, round is the safest choice. It goes with every setting style and never looks dated.
Most expensive per carat because of high demand and significant rough diamond waste during cutting (about 60% of the raw stone is lost).
Oval
Ovals have surged in popularity over the past decade and for good reason. The elongated shape covers more finger area than a round of the same carat weight, creating the illusion of a larger diamond. Ovals also have a flattering effect, making fingers appear longer and more slender. They pair beautifully with both solitaire and halo settings.
Length-to-width ratio between 1.35 and 1.50 for a classic oval look. Avoid the "bow-tie effect", a dark shadow that appears across the centre of poorly cut ovals. You cannot gauge this from the certificate alone, so always look at an image or video of the stone.
Buyers who want maximum visual size for their budget, and anyone who likes the look of round but wants something a little different.
15-25% less per carat than an equivalent round. Retains brilliance close to round because of the similar facet pattern.
Cushion
Also known as: Pillow CutThe cushion cut has been around since the 1800s and was once the most popular diamond shape before rounds took over. With rounded corners and larger facets, it has a softer, more romantic sparkle than a round. Modern cushion cuts come in two main varieties: "crushed ice" (with a scattered, broken-glass-like sparkle pattern) and "chunky" or "antique" (with larger, broader light reflections). This is a matter of personal taste.
Ratio near 1.00 for a square cushion, 1.10-1.20 for slightly rectangular. Choose between crushed ice and chunky based on the look you prefer. No bow-tie issues with cushions, but watch for overly deep stones that face up small.
Vintage-loving buyers and anyone drawn to a softer, warmer sparkle rather than sharp flashes of light.
25-35% less than round. One of the best value shapes because it retains more rough weight during cutting.
Princess
The princess cut is a square or near-square shape with pointed corners and a brilliant-style facet arrangement. It was created in the 1960s and became the second most popular shape after round through the 1990s and 2000s. The sharp corners give it a modern, architectural feel. Be aware that those corners are vulnerable to chipping if the setting does not protect them with V-prongs or a bezel.
Ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 for a square look. Depth under 72%. Avoid stones with a visible dark X pattern when viewed face-up. Always choose a setting with corner protection.
Buyers who want a modern look with strong geometric lines. Works well in channel-set bands.
20-30% less than round. The square shape wastes less rough than cutting a round, which keeps costs down.
Emerald
The emerald cut is a rectangular step-cut with cropped corners. Instead of the flash and fire of brilliant cuts, it produces long, dramatic "hall of mirrors" reflections that draw you into the stone. The large, open table shows everything, which is both its beauty and its challenge. This is a cut that rewards quality. A well-chosen emerald cut has an understated elegance that brilliant cuts simply cannot match.
Ratio of 1.30 to 1.50 for classic proportions. Because the step-cut facets do not hide inclusions the way brilliant facets do, go at least one clarity grade higher than you would for a round. VS1 or VS2 is the minimum for an eye-clean look. Colour also shows more readily, so stick to G or better.
Buyers with refined taste who appreciate subtlety over flash. Very popular for art deco and vintage-inspired settings.
20-30% less than round. The rectangular shape maximises rough yield.
Pear
Also known as: TeardropThe pear shape combines the brilliance of a round with the elongation of a marquise, creating a teardrop silhouette. It is versatile and distinctive. When set with the point facing outward on a ring, it elongates the finger. Pear shapes also make stunning pendants and drop earrings. The pointed end should be sharp and well-defined, not blunted or uneven.
Ratio of 1.50 to 1.70 for a classic teardrop look. Check for bow-tie (common in pears) and make sure the two curved sides are symmetrical. The point should line up perfectly with the centre of the rounded end.
Buyers who want something distinctive without being too unconventional. Works beautifully as a solitaire.
20-30% less than round. Good face-up size relative to carat weight.
Marquise
Also known as: NavetteThe marquise has the largest face-up area of any diamond shape relative to its carat weight. Its elongated boat shape with pointed ends originated in 18th-century France, supposedly commissioned by Louis XV to mimic the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. A well-cut marquise is dramatic and eye-catching. It makes fingers look exceptionally long and slender.
Ratio of 1.85 to 2.10 for classic proportions. Bow-tie is common in marquise cuts, so always view an image. The two pointed ends must be perfectly aligned. Because of the narrow points, choose a setting with V-prong tips for protection.
Buyers who want maximum visual impact and finger coverage. Particularly flattering on shorter fingers.
25-35% less than round. The best shape if you want the biggest looking diamond for your money.
Radiant
The radiant cut merges the silhouette of an emerald cut (rectangular with trimmed corners) with the brilliant-cut faceting pattern underneath. The result is a shape that has the clean lines and geometric look of an emerald but with far more sparkle and fire. It hides inclusions and colour better than emerald cuts because of the crushed-ice brilliance. If you like the idea of an emerald cut but want more flash, radiant is your answer.
Ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 for square, 1.20 to 1.35 for rectangular. Because the brilliant facets do a good job masking inclusions, you can go to VS2 or SI1 comfortably.
Buyers who like geometric shapes but want more sparkle than an emerald cut offers. A great compromise between modern and classic.
20-30% less than round. Similar to cushion pricing.
Asscher
The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. It is essentially a square emerald cut with a higher crown and smaller table, which creates a more pronounced "hall of mirrors" effect and slightly more fire than a standard emerald. The signature windmill pattern visible through the table is unique to this shape. Like the emerald, it is a step cut that rewards high clarity and colour.
Ratio of 1.00 to 1.05 (it should look square). Same clarity and colour advice as emerald: go VS1+ and G+ colour because the large open facets hide nothing. Look for the distinctive windmill pattern when viewed from above.
Art deco enthusiasts and buyers who want a vintage feel with a square silhouette. Less common than most shapes, so it stands out.
15-25% less than round. Similar to emerald cut pricing.
Heart
The heart shape is the most overtly romantic diamond cut. Getting the shape right is technically challenging for cutters: the two lobes must be symmetrical, the cleft must be well-defined, and the point must be sharp and centred. When well-cut, a heart shape has brilliance comparable to a round. At smaller carat weights (under 0.75ct), the heart silhouette can be difficult to see once set in a ring, so it works best at larger sizes where the shape reads clearly.
Ratio of 0.90 to 1.10 for well-proportioned hearts. Symmetry is everything here: the two halves must mirror each other perfectly. The cleft should be clearly defined, not shallow or rounded over. Go 1.00 carat or above so the shape is recognisable when set.
Sentimental buyers who want the diamond itself to communicate love. Works best as a pendant or in a solitaire setting at larger carat weights.
20-30% less than round. Less demand keeps prices moderate, but well-cut hearts are harder to find.